After using my Blue, Red and NIR 510k Led Light Therapy Face, Neck and Decolletage Mask – and getting new, darker pigmentation, it was time to do some research.
Unfortunately Light Therapy publications within PubMed are hard to find for darker skin tones, actually that’s putting it mildly, for skin tones with a splash of olive/tanned tones upwards!
Why I Needed to Research Red Light Therapy and Pigmentation
I learned so much about LED light therapy and its effects on skin pigmentation. This topic particularly resonated with me because I’ve noticed my own pigmentation increasing when using my light therapy mask.
Recently reading some articles by GembaRed, and watching a YouTube video by Pamperwolf (a fully qualified aesthetician and beauty therapist named Gemma), offered potential explanations and methods to prevent or address pigmentation. It was incredibly interesting and helpful and hope you find the knowledge beneficial too!
What is the Gold Standard of LED Therapy?
The gold standard of LED therapy combines red light and near-infrared light. This combination is known to help with reducing pigmentation, calming inflammation, increasing collagen, smoothing wrinkles, and improving skin texture. But Gemma explained that some people experience the opposite effect—an increase in pigmentation. This is important, especially for people with darker skin like mine.
Skin Tone Matters: Understanding Fitzpatrick Skin Types for LED light Therapy Treatments
Gemma discussed the Fitzpatrick scale for skin types, a scale to classify skin by tone.
- Fitzpatrick 1-3: lighter skin tones (fair to medium skin).
- Fitzpatrick 4-6: darker skin tones (medium-dark to very dark skin).
Skin types absorb light differently. This absorption changes the way LED therapy works for pigmentation. People with darker skin (like Fitzpatrick 3-6) need to be more cautious.
Red Light Therapy Can Sometimes Make Pigmentation Worse
Although normally safe, Red light therapy can increase pigmentation in Type III+-deeper skin tones. Red and Blue light therapy is strongly absorbed by eumelanin, which is the dark pigment found in skin.
This absorption can create localised heat, which may trigger melanin-producing cells (melanocytes) to make more pigment. This can make melasma and hyperpigmentation worse.
£199.95 - FDA I Flexible Red Light Therapy Pad – Blue, Red & NIR Benefits – Pain & Skin
FDA-certified light therapy wrap combines 630nm red (collagen boost), 850nm near-infrared (pain relief), and 470nm blue (bacteria and stubborn skin treatment) for targeted Face or Body healing. 600 LEDs, pulse/steady modes, and 20-minute timer,.
£299.95 - FDA 510K I Face, Neck & Decolletage Mask I Blue 415nm, Red 633nm, NIR 830nm I Treat Anti-Aging & Acne
LED Face, Neck & Decolletage Mask: Your At-Home Skincare Expert – Non-invasive Treatment: Anti-aging, smooth fine lines, increase collagen, treat acne, and even skin tone – x3 Light Therapy wavelengths: Blue 415nm, Red 630nm, and Near-Infrared (NIR) 830nm
What Are Melasma and Hyperpigmentation?
Melasma is pigmentation on the cheeks, forehead, nose, and upper lip. It’s often caused by hormonal changes like pregnancy. Hyperpigmentation happens when inflammation, medication, or sun exposure triggers the skin to make too much melanin. Both conditions can get worse when the skin is overheated, even from small amounts of heat.
Working With Your Skin Tone: Avoid/Treating Pigmentation Skin Type 3+
After reading some articles, and watching Gemma’s video I would recommend the following for managing pigmentation concerns:
- Lighter skin tones (Fitzpatrick 1-3): Work from the outside in. Use red light only. Avoid near-infrared.
- Darker skin tones (Fitzpatrick 4-6): Work from the inside out. Use near-infrared only. Avoid red light.
- Type 3 and already have pigmentation? Monitor skin when using Blue or Red Light (Blue caused my pigmentation to flare up leaving dark squares form the LEDs).
I used NIR mode to reduce the pigmentation. (My mask has individual and combination modes).
Red Light vs. Near-Infrared: Which One Should You Use?
- Lighter skin tone (1-3), you can usually use red light safely. Red light stays on the surface and can help reduce pigmentation. But if you have melasma, avoid near-infrared light as it may heat deeper skin layers.
- If you have a Darker skin tone (3+), avoid red light. Red light may cause surface heat that can trigger more pigment. Use near-infrared light, which travels deeper into the skin and bypasses the surface layers.
– DON’T BE SCARED. Your skin may act differently to the guidelines above AND THAT’S OK!.
I have increased my pigmentation, then reduced it using LED Light Therapy. Blue 415nm caused the discoloration/increase, however Red 630nm for 10 minutes, then NIR 830nm for 10 mins, AM, 3-4 times a week quickly improved my skin tone!
I will continue to use LED Light Therapy and reflect on my experience (stay tuned).
9 Top Tips to Safely Use LED Light Therapy for Pigmentation
- Identify your skin tone using the Fitzpatrick scale.
- If you have melasma or hyperpigmentation, choose the right light wavelength.
- Lighter skin tones (1-3): Use red light only.
- Darker skin tones (3+): Use near-infrared light only.
- Avoid combining both if you are prone to pigmentation.
- Watch for signs of heat or irritation during use.
- Consult with skin specialists for tailored advice.
- Work from the inside out if you have a darker skin tone.
- Work from the outside in if you have a lighter skin tone.
